Intro
When a fitting snaps or a stub breaks in a wall, the job stalls fast. Here’s how to remove a broken pipe piece and install a new elbow without drama. We’ll cover copper, plastic, and threaded pipe. You’ll get simple steps, safe heat use, correct sealing, and pressure testing. On most jobs, this takes 45–90 minutes. The steps below help you avoid leaks, call-backs, and extra holes in the wall.
Quick Answer
Shut off water, drain down, and expose clean pipe. Remove the broken pipe piece using an internal wrench, heat (for soldered copper), or a careful cut-back. Prep the pipe, then install a new elbow using solder, compression, push-fit, or solvent weld. Finally, pressure test for 10–15 minutes and check for leaks.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Isolate, drain, and protect surfaces before any cutting or heat.
- Use the right removal method: heat for solder, extractors for threads.
- Deburr inside and out; clean 20–30 mm of pipe for a solid joint.
- PTFE: 8–12 wraps on threads; allow 60 minutes cure for many solvents.
- Pressure test 10–15 minutes; check again after 24 hours.
- Adjustable spanner, two pipe wrenches (250–300 mm)
- Internal pipe/nipple extractor (for 1/2"–3/4" or 15–22 mm threads)
- Mini pipe cutter, fine-tooth hacksaw, oscillating saw (tight spaces)
- Emery cloth or Scotch-Brite, deburr tool, pipe reamer
- Heat mat, blowtorch, lead-free solder, flux (for copper)
- Compression elbows, olives; push-fit elbows; copper elbows (15 mm, 22 mm)
- Pipe inserts/stiffeners for plastic (15 mm, 22 mm)
- PTFE tape, anaerobic thread sealant (optional)
- Primer and solvent cement for uPVC/CPVC (match pipe type)
- Spray bottle with water, fire extinguisher, bucket, rags
Prep and Safety Before You Start
- Isolate supply at the stopcock. Open the lowest tap to drain. Open the highest tap to vent air.
- Protect surroundings. Use a heat mat and a metal shield when soldering.
- Check material. Identify copper, steel/galvanised, PEX, PB, uPVC, or CPVC.
- Measure. Note pipe size: 15 mm, 22 mm, or 28 mm are common in the UK.
- Plan access. Cut a neat opening if needed. Leave 25–50 mm extra space for tools.
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Step-by-Step: How to Remove a Broken Pipe Piece and Install a New Elbow
- Confirm Isolation
- Double-check the stopcock. No flow at the work point.
- Drain Down and Catch Residual Water
- Keep a bucket ready. A wet pipe won’t solder.
- Expose Sound Pipe
- Remove 20–40 mm of damaged pipe until you reach clean, round pipe.
- Remove Broken Threaded Piece (If Present)
- Use an internal pipe extractor sized to 1/2" or 3/4" (15–22 mm). Turn counter-clockwise with a wrench. Apply steady pressure, not shocks.
- Remove Soldered Copper Stub
- Heat the old fitting evenly for 10–20 seconds. Pull off with grips while hot. Wipe molten solder and let cool 2–3 minutes.
- Remove Plastic Stub
- Cut square using a pipe cutter or fine-tooth saw. Deburr edges.
- Clean and Prep Pipe Ends
- Emery the outer 20–30 mm of copper until bright. Deburr inside to avoid turbulence and o-ring damage.
- Dry Fit the New Elbow
- Check alignment. Mark insertion depth. Typical push-fit depth: ~21 mm (15 mm pipe) and ~28 mm (22 mm pipe).
- Choose Your Joint Type
- Copper solder, compression, push-fit, or solvent weld. Match to existing pipe and site conditions.
- Make the Joint
- Compression: New olive, hand-tight plus 1/2–3/4 turn.
- Push-fit: Insert fully to the mark; use pipe inserts on plastic.
- Solder: Flux both sides, heat fitting, feed 8–12 mm of solder per 15 mm joint.
- Solvent weld: Prime, apply cement, quarter-turn, hold 20–30 seconds.
Material-Specific Techniques
Threaded Steel/Galvanised
- If the nipple snaps flush, use an internal extractor. Add penetrating oil. Apply steady torque with two wrenches to avoid twisting the run.
- Wrap PTFE tape 8–12 turns on new male threads. Add paste if allowed by spec. Do not over-tighten; stop at alignment.
Copper (Soldered)
- Heat the fitting, not the solder. When solder melts on touch, feed until a full ring appears.
- Wipe the joint while warm for a clean bead. Let cool naturally; don’t quench.
- For short pipe, use a slip coupling to make up length.
Copper (Compression)
- Always use a new olive. Do not reuse.
- Support the opposing pipe with a second spanner. Hand-tight, then 1/2–3/4 turn. If it weeps, give another 1/8 turn.
Push-Fit (Copper or Plastic)
- Deburr carefully. Any burrs cut o-rings.
- For plastic (PEX/PB), always use pipe inserts. Mark insertion depth: 20–30 mm typical.
- Test pull: a firm tug should not move the pipe.
uPVC/CPVC (Solvent Weld)
- Use the correct cement for the material. Primer first if required by the product.
- Apply a full, even coat to pipe and fitting socket. Quarter-turn and hold 20–30 seconds. Wipe squeeze-out. Allow at least 60 minutes before pressure; many pros wait 24 hours for full cure.
Pressure Test and Clean Up
- Close outlets. Pressurise slowly. Many contractors test at 1.5Ă— working pressure where safe and permitted.
- Check with a dry tissue or paper. Any moisture shows fast.
- Monitor for 10–15 minutes. Recheck after 24 hours.
- Flush lines to clear flux and debris. Replace insulation and make good.
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Pro Tips, Common Mistakes, and When to Stop
- Pro Tip: Pre-mark pipe insertion depth. It prevents shallow push-fit seating.
- Pro Tip: Shield joists and cables with a heat mat and spark guard.
- Mistake: Over-heating copper. Burnt flux causes pinholes. Heat the fitting, not the pipe end.
- Mistake: Reusing olives. It’s common for them to leak later.
- Stop and Reassess: If you see ovalised pipe, deep pitting, or a cracked fitting seat, cut back a further 25–50 mm and start fresh.
- Documentation: Snap before/after photos and note parts used. Logging this with tools like Donizo helps you build quick repair proposals later.
FAQ
How do I remove a broken pipe piece stuck inside a fitting?
Use an internal pipe or nipple extractor sized to the thread (commonly 1/2" or 3/4"). Insert, seat it firmly, and turn counter-clockwise with a wrench. Add penetrating oil and use steady torque. Avoid shocks that can crack the fitting or the wall behind.
Can I mix push-fit with copper on the same repair?
Yes. Many repairs combine push-fit elbows with copper pipe. Deburr the copper, use a pipe insert on any plastic sections, and mark insertion depth. Push-fit is great in tight spaces and where flames are risky. Still clip the pipe within 150–200 mm of fittings.
How tight should a compression elbow be?
Hand-tight first. Then add 1/2–3/4 turn with spanners. If it weeps on test, tighten another 1/8 turn. Don’t overtighten; it can crush the olive and deform the pipe, causing leaks later.
How long should I wait after solvent welding?
Hold the joint 20–30 seconds after assembly. Many products allow light handling in 15 minutes. For pressure, allow at least 60 minutes at room temperature. For best results, many contractors wait 24 hours before a full pressure test.
What pressure should I test at?
In general, test at or slightly above normal working pressure. Many pros use about 1.5× working pressure where safe and permitted. Monitor for 10–15 minutes, then recheck after 24 hours for any slow weeps.
Conclusion
When you know how to remove a broken pipe piece and install a new elbow, most small leaks become a 60–90 minute job. Isolate, remove the stub with the right method, prep clean pipe, make a sound joint, and test. Next steps:
- Stock 15 mm and 22 mm elbows in compression, push-fit, and solder.
- Carry an internal extractor and a heat mat on every van.
- Document parts and time on site. Platforms such as Donizo help you turn voice notes into clear proposals, e-signed fast, then converted to invoices.
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