Intro

On most jobs, small leaks eat time. You tighten gently. It still weeps. You think you need to drain the line. Not today. A very smart plumber shared a trick that stops weeping compression joints fast, without a full drain down. In 10–15 minutes, you can reseat the olive, use a tiny bit of PTFE and compound, and tighten by angle, not guesswork. This guide shows the exact steps, tools, and limits. It’s simple, safe, and it works on 15 mm and 22 mm fittings.

Quick Answer

A very smart plumber shared a trick: loosen the compression fitting, slide the nut back, clean the olive and pipe, add 2–3 wraps of PTFE on the olive with a thin smear of jointing compound, reassemble, then tighten 1/4–1/2 turn. Wipe dry and check for 5 minutes. Most weeps stop without draining.

Table of Contents

• Why This Trick Works
• Tools and Materials
• A Very Smart Plumber Shared a Trick: Step-by-Step Fix
• Test, Flush, and Finish
• Common Mistakes and Safe Limits
• Document the Repair and Get Paid Faster
• FAQ

Key Takeaways

• 2–3 PTFE wraps on the olive plus a thin compound smear seals most weeps.
• Tighten by angle: 1/4–1/2 turn after snug. Don’t exceed 3/4 turn.
• Most fixes take 10–15 minutes with 6 tools.
• Check for 5 minutes at normal pressure (2–3 bar typical mains).

Why This Trick Works

Compression fittings seal at the olive, not the threads. When the olive bites unevenly or has a scratch, you get a tiny pathway for water. A very smart plumber shared a trick that fills those micro gaps. PTFE on the olive, plus a thin jointing compound, creates a soft gasket. Then correct tightening pressure finishes the seal without crushing the pipe.

This method keeps the work simple. No full drain down. No heat. No new pipe. You just prepare, reseat, and tighten by controlled angles. On site, it saves 20–30 minutes per leak. Over a week, that’s hours back.

Tools and Materials

• Two spanners: 22 mm and 24 mm (or adjustable) for 22 mm fittings; 17 mm and 19 mm for 15 mm.
• PTFE tape, standard density.
• Non-setting jointing compound (thin smear only).
• Microfibre cloth and paper towel.
• Small brush or cotton bud for compound.
• Torch or headlamp for under-sink work.
• Optional: new olive (15 mm or 22 mm) if the old one is scored.

Tip: Keep a tiny mirror and a 150 mm inspection light. Seeing behind a trap saves 2–3 minutes.

A Very Smart Plumber Shared a Trick: Step-by-Step Fix

Follow these numbered steps for clean HowTo documentation.

1. Isolate water: Close the nearest service valve. If none, close the stopcock. Open a nearby tap to drop pressure for 10–20 seconds.
2. Mark position: Use a pen to mark the nut and body. You’ll track your tightening angle later.
3. Loosen: Hold the fitting body with one spanner. Crack the nut with the other. Back it off 8–12 mm.
4. Clean: Wipe the pipe, olive, and fitting seat dry. Spend 30–60 seconds here. Any grit causes leaks.
5. Inspect: If the olive has a deep groove or is oval, replace it. Slide off the old olive with a small olive puller or carefully cut it with a junior hacksaw and twist off. Avoid nicking the pipe.
6. PTFE the olive: Wrap 2–3 turns of PTFE around the olive, mid-centre, not over the pipe end. Keep it smooth. No lumps.
7. Compound: Apply a very thin smear of non-setting compound on the olive and inside the nut seat. Think “film”, not “glob”.
8. Reassemble: Slide the nut up, seat the pipe fully home, and finger-tighten until snug.
9. Tighten by angle: Using your marks, tighten 1/4 turn (90°). If it weeps on test, add another 1/8–1/4 turn (45–90°). Don’t exceed 3/4 turn total.
10. Restore water: Slowly reopen the valve or stopcock. Watch the joint while water fills.

This is the heart of “A very smart plumber shared a trick!” It’s controlled, repeatable, and avoids over-tightening. Most weeps stop at the first 1/4 turn.

Test, Flush, and Finish

• Wipe dry: Get the joint bone dry so you can spot fresh beads.
• Pressure check: Observe for 5 minutes at normal pressure (2–3 bar common). Use a dry finger to feel for moisture.
• Tissue test: Hold a piece of tissue under the joint. One drop shows fast.
• Final nip: If you see a tiny bead, add 1/8 turn. Wait 60 seconds. Re-check.
• Flush: Run the tap 30–60 seconds. This clears any tiny compound traces.
• Re-check after heat cycle: On hot lines, check once the pipe cools. Metal moves. A quick 1/8 turn may be needed.

Many contractors find this whole process takes 10–15 minutes per joint. On a busy day with 4–6 callouts, that’s real time saved.

Common Mistakes and Safe Limits

A very smart plumber shared a trick, but it only works if you avoid common errors.

• Over-tightening: More force isn’t better. Past 3/4 turn you risk crushing a 15 mm pipe. Stop and reassess.
• PTFE everywhere: Keep tape on the olive, not the first 2–3 mm of pipe end. Don’t block the bore.
• Too much compound: Use a film, not a blob. Excess can smear and look like a leak.
• Dirty seats: One grain of grit defeats the whole trick. Wipe, inspect, and wipe again.
• Wrong olive: Mixing 15 mm and 1/2" olives happens. Check size. A 22 mm olive won’t bite a 3/4" BSP tail correctly.
• Misalignment: Stressed pipe won’t seal. If the pipe isn’t straight into the fitting, add a 10–15 mm spacer, a new bend, or a short flexi.

If it still weeps after 3 careful passes, replace the olive and try once more. Still leaking? Swap the fitting. Don’t chase a bad body.

Document the Repair and Get Paid Faster

Small leak fixes are quick wins, but paperwork eats time. Capture the job while you’re still under the sink. Speak the job notes, add 2–3 photos, and convert to a simple proposal on your phone. Tools like Donizo let you go from voice notes to a branded proposal, collect an e-signature, and one-click convert to an invoice. On service work, this can save 10–20 minutes per visit.

Internal linking ideas for your site:

• Build clear “professional proposals” for small jobs.
• Use “invoice templates” that match service calls.
• Set simple “pricing strategies” for minimum charges.
• Keep “project timelines” visible for multi-visit repairs.

FAQ

Is PTFE on a compression olive allowed?

Yes. Many plumbers use 2–3 wraps on the olive with a thin non-setting compound film. It doesn’t rely on the threads. It fills micro gaps between the olive and seat. Keep it tidy and minimal. The seal is still mechanical.

How tight should a compression fitting be?

Finger-tight to snug, then 1/4 turn. Test. If needed, add another 1/8–1/4 turn. Don’t exceed 3/4 turn total. Tighten by angle, not by brute force.

Do I need to drain the whole system for a tiny weep?

Often no. Close the nearest service valve or the main stopcock, open a nearby tap for 10–20 seconds, then follow the steps. A very smart plumber shared a trick that avoids full drain downs for most small leaks.

When should I replace the olive?

If it’s scored, oval, or you’ve tightened to 3/4 turn and it still weeps. Cut it carefully, don’t nick the pipe. A fresh olive and the same method fix most stubborn joints.

Will this work on hot and cold lines?

Yes. It works on both. On hot lines, re-check after a heat cycle. Metal expansion can relax the joint slightly. A quick 1/8 turn usually finishes the job.

Conclusion

Small leaks don’t need big work. A very smart plumber shared a trick: prep the olive, add 2–3 PTFE wraps with a thin compound film, and tighten by angle. It’s fast, clean, and reliable. Next steps: 1) Stock PTFE, compound, and spare olives in your van. 2) Mark nuts and bodies to control tightening. 3) Document service calls on-site; platforms such as Donizo help you turn notes into proposals and invoices in minutes. Use this method today and keep your day moving.