Introduction

Nothing burns time and margin like a bad shower-glass measure. One wrong angle, a bowed wall you missed, or the wrong hinge choice and you’re re-ordering glass and re-scheduling crews. This guide lays out what to check, why it matters, and exactly how to measure and order frameless glass that installs cleanly. You’ll get tolerances, practical sequences, and real examples you can use on your next site visit.

Table of Contents

• Key Takeaways
• Measure Plumb, Level, and Slope First
• Select Glass and Hardware Early
• Plan for Tile Variations and Reveals
• Hinge Placement and Door Swing
• Water Management That Prevents Leaks
• Documentation and Ordering Checklist
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Conclusion

Key Takeaways

• Small tolerances drive big outcomes: check plumb, level, and slope before you touch a tape.
• Order sequencing matters: measure after tile/grout cure; confirm hardware before final cut sizes.
• Most frameless jobs land on 3/8 inch tempered; jump to 1/2 inch for wide doors or minimal hardware.
• Clear documentation (dimensions, swing, gaps, finishes) reduces back-and-forth and remakes.

Measure Plumb, Level, and Slope First

Many contractors find that 80 percent of shower-glass “problems” were visible at the wall, curb, or jamb if you looked for them on day one.

What’s Going Wrong

• Walls and jambs out of plumb cause hinge bind and uneven reveals.
• Curb tops not sloped shed water the wrong way and demand oversized sweeps.
• Bowed tile or lippage forces glass to twist, creating stress and leaks.

Field-Proven Checks

• Use a 6-foot level or digital angle gauge on both jambs and the panel wall.
  • In general, frameless hinges tolerate up to about 3/16 inch out-of-plumb over 6 feet before shims or pivot hardware become necessary.
• Check curb slope with a torpedo level.
  • Commonly, the target is about 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain; less than 1/8 inch per foot risks pooling.
• Confirm the header (if any) is level to within 1/16 inch over the span for clean panel fit.

Real-World Example

A remodeler measured a 30 inch door opening with the hinge side 1/4 inch out-of-plumb. Switching from a wall-to-glass hinge to a pivot hinge at the curb (with a 1 inch wide base plate) absorbed the lean and avoided a remake. Install time held at about 2 hours, and no callbacks.

Select Glass and Hardware Early

Hardware dictates cut sizes, hole locations, and what “out-of-plumb” you can realistically absorb.

Glass and Hardware Basics

• Tempered safety glass is a must. In general, 3/8 inch (10 mm) tempered is the standard for frameless; 1/2 inch (12 mm) adds stiffness for wider doors or minimal hardware.
• Low-iron glass reduces green tint and reads “premium” beside white tile. Commonly, low-iron adds cost and can add 1–3 business days to lead time.
• Lead times: In general, local fabricators quote 5–10 business days for clear tempered; low-iron or notches can push to 7–15 days.

When to Step Up to 1/2 Inch

• Door width greater than about 28–30 inches.
• Minimal hardware designs (fewer clamps, no header).
• Tall installs (over 80 inches) where deflection is noticeable.

Quick Comparison

Tip

Confirm hardware finish availability before you finalize sizes. Many contractors report that specialty finishes (brushed bronze, matte black variants) can add 2–5 business days.

Plan for Tile Variations and Reveals

A common mistake is measuring tight to tile assuming it’s perfectly straight. It rarely is.

What to Watch

• Lippage: Even 1/16 inch steps can show as uneven silicone lines.
• Bows: Large-format tile can bow 1/16–1/8 inch across the height, pulling panels out.
• Niches and benches: Corners are seldom perfectly square.

Practical Allowances

• Inside gaps: In general, aim for about 1/8 inch gap between glass and walls/curb for silicone and movement.
• Door-to-fixed panel gap: Commonly 1/8–3/16 inch with a strike or seal specified by the hardware vendor.
• Sweep clearance: Leave about 1/2 inch from door bottom to curb top, adjusted to slope and sweep spec.

Solution Path

• Scribe measure: Take top, middle, and bottom widths at every opening. Note differences of 1/8 inch or more.
• Choose the containment method: U-channel vs. clamps vs. header. U-channel forgives more wall wave (up to about 1/4 inch in some cases with silicone), clamps need flatter tile.
• If the opening is “hourglassed” more than 1/4 inch, consider a header or a stationary panel to square the door area.

Hinge Placement and Door Swing

You can have a beautiful door that fails on day one if the swing is wrong.

Code and Safety Reality

• Many jurisdictions require shower doors to open outward for egress. Plan for out-swing, even if you also allow some in-swing.
• Comfortable clear egress is commonly 28–30 inches; plan vanity and toilet locations accordingly.

Hinge Decisions

• Wall hinges vs. pivot hinges: Pivot hinges at the curb often handle out-of-plumb and reduce stress on tile anchors.
• Hinge spacing: In general, space hinges 7–10 inches from door edges (per manufacturer) to manage torque.
• Fastening: Use proper anchors for tile over backer vs. tile over drywall. Many contractors prefer stainless steel anchors with epoxy in questionable substrates.

Example

A 24 inch door next to a toilet centerline at 15 inches from the finished glass line will clip knees if in-swing is the default. Flipping the hinge and specifying out-swing with a back-to-back handle clears the fixture. Add a magnetic strike to quiet the close.

Water Management That Prevents Leaks

Leaks aren’t about “more silicone.” They’re about slope, seals, and drip paths.

Key Details

• Curb slope: About 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain.
• Door sweeps and strikes: Match the sweep to your curb slope; many sweeps are effective at 0.25–0.5 inch reveal.
• Horizontal surfaces: Bench tops and pony-wall caps should slope 1/8–1/4 inch per foot to the wet side.
• Silicone cure: Commonly 24 hours to skin and 48–72 hours to full strength; don’t promise same-day use.

Practical Moves

• Specify a drip rail on the door bottom if clients want a drier bath floor.
• On fixed panels, run silicone only on the wet side where appropriate; follow the fabricator’s guidance for structural vs. cosmetic beads.
• If the curb is nearly flat, raise the sweep slightly and add a threshold seal to avoid wicking.

Example

A fixed panel on a pony wall with a flat cap leaked at the panel base. The fix: re-silicone after re-setting the cap with a 3/16 inch slope and switching to U-channel for a continuous seal. Callbacks stopped.

Documentation and Ordering Checklist

This is where jobs are won or lost. Clean paperwork equals clean glass.

What to Capture On Site

• Photos of every edge and anchor location (show grout lines and any cracks).
• Three-point width measurements for each opening (top/middle/bottom) and two-point height measurements (left/right).
• Plumb/level notes: e.g., “Hinge jamb leans in 3/16 inch over 72 inches.”
• Final finishes: glass type (clear/low-iron), hardware finish, handle style, sweep and seal type.

Ordering Sequence That Works

1. Measure after tile, curb cap, and grout are complete and cured at least 24 hours.
2. Confirm swing direction, handle type, and hinge model before you finalize cut sizes.
3. Draw a dimensioned sketch with all gaps and hardware callouts; include swing arc clearance.
4. Submit to fabricator and get a shop drawing if available; review hole locations and edge distances.
5. Communicate lead time clearly to the client. In general, allow 7–15 business days for fabrication depending on glass and notches.

Using Donizo to Save Time

• Capture the measure with voice and photos on site, and turn it into a decision-ready proposal fast with Donizo voice-to-proposal.
• Send a branded PDF with the sketch and options; clients can accept via e-signature.
• Once accepted, convert to invoice in one click and track payments without re-typing.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I measure for custom glass?

Measure after all tile, curb caps, and grout are complete and cured at least 24 hours. Many installers prefer 48–72 hours to ensure no movement. Measuring early is a common cause of misfits.

How much out-of-plumb can standard hinges handle?

In general, about 1/8–3/16 inch over 6 feet can be handled with hinge adjustment and shims. Beyond that, consider pivot hinges, a header, or adjusting the layout to square the door zone. Always verify with the hinge manufacturer.

Is low-iron glass worth the upgrade?

If the bath has white or light tile and a premium finish, low-iron removes the green tint and photographs better. Commonly, it adds cost and 1–3 business days to lead time. For darker tile, standard clear often looks fine.

Do shower doors have to swing out?

Many jurisdictions require the door to open outward for egress. Plan for out-swing by default. If you also allow in-swing, ensure the out-swing remains clear and unobstructed.

What gap should I leave at the walls and curb?

Plan about 1/8 inch to the walls and curb for silicone and movement, and 1/8–3/16 inch between door and fixed panel depending on the strike/seal. Confirm with your hardware vendor’s recommended tolerances.

Conclusion

Custom shower glass is unforgiving—but predictable—when you control plumb, level, slope, and documentation. Measure after finishes, pick hardware before you finalize sizes, allow smart reveals, and think about water paths, not just silicone. Do that, and you’ll cut remakes and callbacks dramatically.

Want to lock details quickly while you’re still on site? Talk through the measure, snap photos, and turn it into a clean proposal with Donizo voice-to-proposal. Send a branded PDF, get a legal e-signature, and convert the accepted proposal to an invoice in one click. That’s more time on installs—and fewer nights re-typing.