Intro
Clients love clean kitchens. They want brighter worktops and a warm glow at night. A bright idea for cabinets is simple: add smart LED lighting that looks built-in and works every day. In this guide, you’ll learn exactly how to plan, spec, price, and install it fast. We cover power, profiles, wiring, and a simple step-by-step install. You’ll also see how to present the scope clearly so the client says yes. Use this on kitchens, baths, mudrooms, and laundry rooms. The method is the same.
Quick Answer
A bright idea for cabinets is integrated LED task and accent lighting with 24V tape, 3000K–3500K color, 90+ CRI, and 250–450 lumens per foot. Plan power early, run hidden wiring, use aluminum channels with diffusers, and add a dimmer. Most installs take 45–90 minutes per run after prep.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- 24V, 90+ CRI LED tape with 3000K–3500K covers most kitchens.
- Aim for 250–450 lumens per foot for task light; less for accent.
- Hide wiring in a 3/8"–1/2" reveal or shallow channel for a clean look.
- Expect 45–90 minutes per run after rough-in; plan power early.
- Dimmer + driver placement decides long-term serviceability and callbacks.
Why Lighting Sells: The Bright Idea for Cabinets
Clients don’t ask for watts. They ask for clean light and no glare. The bright idea for cabinets gives them both. You light the counter evenly. You highlight glass doors. You wash the toe-kick for a night path. It feels high-end without a huge budget.
On most jobs, lighting is the simplest upgrade that changes how the space feels. Add it when you replace doors, install new boxes, or even on a repaint. The bright idea for cabinets also hides your work. No visible wires. No hot spots. Just smooth, bright lines.
Plan the Bright Idea for Cabinets: Power and Specs
Good planning avoids callbacks. Here’s how to plan the bright idea for cabinets so install is smooth.
Power and Control
- Pick 24V LED tape. It runs longer lengths with less voltage drop.
- Use 1 driver per zone. Keep runs under 16–20 feet per output unless your driver allows more.
- Choose 3000K or 3500K. 3000K feels warm. 3500K feels neutral. Both sell well in kitchens.
- Use 90+ CRI. Colors look right, wood tones pop.
- Add a wall dimmer or low-voltage dimming module. Clients want control.
Lumens and Diffusion
- Task light: 250–450 lumens per foot. This handles chopping and reading labels.
- Accent light: 100–250 lumens per foot. Softer glow for glass or toe-kicks.
- Use aluminum channels with diffusers. They spread heat and hide hot spots.
Routing and Clearances
- Hide tape in a 3/8"–1/2" front light rail (or create one with trim).
- Keep wires in the cabinet corner. Use 1/2" holes and grommets.
- Keep drivers ventilated. Many need 1"–2" of open air around them.
If you’re also looking to streamline professional proposals, our guide on professional proposals pairs perfectly with this step. Clear specs help you avoid disputes later (link "professional proposals").
Choose Fixtures That Work
Choosing the right parts makes the bright idea for cabinets look built-in.
Under-Cabinet Task Lighting
- 24V LED tape in a shallow aluminum channel. Low profile, clean, fast to install.
- Puck lights can create hot spots. Use only for small sections or round detail looks.
- Hard bars are fine, but tape adapts around outlets and seams.
In-Cabinet and Glass Doors
- Install tape at the front face of shelves for even wash.
- For glass, run vertical channels on both sides. Keep 2–3 inches from the face.
- Use door sensors for auto-on. Clients love this small touch.
Toe-Kick and Accent
- Tape in a recess 1–2 inches back from the toe edge.
- 100–200 lumens per foot is plenty for a night path.
- Use a motion sensor on a 2–5 minute timer for convenience.
Drivers and Dimmers
- Mount drivers inside a base cabinet, pantry, or basement mechanical spot.
- Label each output. Leave 4–6 inches of slack service loop.
- If you must splice, use UL-listed connectors and heat-shrink.
Install It Right: Step-by-Step
Follow this simple sequence to deliver the bright idea for cabinets without fuss.
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Confirm Scope and Zones (15–30 minutes)
- Walk the run lengths. Mark each start/stop with tape.
- Decide zones: under-cabinet, glass, toe-kick. Note switch locations.
- Measure total feet. Add 10–15% extra for cuts and leads.
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Rough Power and Control (45–60 minutes)
- Pull 14/2 or 12/2 to driver location per local code.
- Mount the driver within 6–10 feet of the runs when possible.
- Install wall dimmer or low-voltage dimmer as designed.
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Route Low-Voltage Leads (30–45 minutes)
- Drill 1/2" holes at cabinet corners. Protect edges with grommets.
- Run 18 AWG 2-conductor to each run. Label both ends.
- Keep low-voltage away from AC lines by at least 2 inches.
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Mount Channels and Tape (30–60 minutes)
- Dry-fit aluminum channels. Cut with a fine-tooth blade.
- Clean surfaces with alcohol. Stick tape straight, no kinks.
- Snap diffusers. Check for even spacing 1/4"–1/2" from the face.
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Wire, Test, and Tidy (20–40 minutes)
- Use polarity-correct connectors. Heat-shrink all exposed joints.
- Power on. Check color, brightness, and flicker at 10%, 50%, and 100%.
- Secure wires with clips every 12–18 inches.
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Client Demo and Handover (10–15 minutes)
- Show dimming, sensors, and any scenes.
In general, contractors report this sequence cuts install time by 20–30 minutes per run compared to ad-hoc methods. The bright idea for cabinets goes smoothly when you prep holes and labels before tape goes up.
Price, Proposal, and Sign-Off
You sell light, not parts. Keep it simple.
- Bundle by zone: under-cabinet per linear foot, glass per door, toe-kick per run.
- Include driver, dimmer, channels, and labor. One line per zone keeps confusion low.
- Note specs on the proposal: “24V, 90+ CRI, 3000K LED, aluminum channels, wall dimmer.”
- Add an option: “Toe-kick night light with motion sensor.” Many clients add it.
Capture scope, photos, and voice notes right after the walk-through. Tools like Donizo let you turn those details into a branded proposal fast, collect e-signatures, and convert accepted work to an invoice in one click. This reduces back-and-forth and locks the upsell while interest is high.
This pairs well with understanding change orders if cabinets shift mid-job (link "change orders done right"). For smoother billing later, set up simple invoice templates in advance (link "invoice templates").
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- No diffuser: visible dots on shiny counters. Always use channels with lenses.
- Wrong color temp: 4000K can feel too cool with warm wood. Stick to 3000K–3500K.
- Underpowered driver: dimming issues and early failure. Size for total watts + 20% headroom.
- Loose wiring: sagging leads show under light rails. Use clips every 12–18 inches.
- Skipping dimmers: daytime and nighttime needs differ. Always include dimming.
- No service plan: hide everything and you’ll regret it. Leave access to drivers.
Keeping these in mind makes the bright idea for cabinets a reliable, repeatable add-on. It looks premium and avoids callbacks.
FAQ
What color temperature looks best for kitchens?
3000K or 3500K works for most kitchens. 3000K gives a warm feel. 3500K is a touch crisper, still warm. Both look great on stone and wood. Avoid very cool light unless the client asks for it.
How bright should under-cabinet lights be?
Aim for 250–450 lumens per foot for task lighting. That’s bright enough for cooking and reading labels without glare. For accent lighting, 100–250 lumens per foot is usually enough.
Do I need aluminum channels with LED tape?
Yes. Channels spread heat, keep lines straight, and hide dots with a diffuser. They also protect the tape from grease, steam, and cleaning. Installs look more “built-in” and last longer.
Where should I place the driver?
Put the driver where you can reach it: a base cabinet, pantry, or service area. Leave 1–2 inches of ventilation space, label the circuits, and provide a small service loop= for future work.
Can I add lighting to existing cabinets?
Yes. You can retrofit. Use shallow channels, hide wires in corners, and power from a nearby circuit per code. Expect about 45–90 minutes per run after planning and prep.
Conclusion
The bright idea for cabinets is simple: plan power and control, choose 24V, 90+ CRI tape in channels, and install with clean routing and dimming. It sells fast and installs clean. Next steps: 1) Walk your next kitchen and mark zones. 2) Pick 3000K or 3500K, 24V tape. 3) Price by zone with a dimmer option. For fast proposals and quick sign-off, platforms such as Donizo help you capture details, send e-signature proposals, and convert to invoices. Do this, and your lighting upsell becomes a steady profit line on every cabinet job.